Forgotten foods of India: Traditional regional dishes that deserve a comeback

Festivals bring people together over food, making this a good time to look beyond familiar festive favourites and rediscover traditional dishes that rarely feature on modern restaurant menus. Across India, recipes have been passed down through families, shaped by local ingredients and the way people cook and eat in their region. Many of these dishes remain popular in their home states but are still unfamiliar to diners elsewhere.

Bajra Raab

"Bajra raab is a beautiful example of how traditional Indian food was shaped by the needs of everyday life. Made with pearl millet, it is a simple, nourishing preparation that has been enjoyed in parts of Rajasthan and Gujarat, particularly during colder months. I love dishes like raab because they don’t require elaborate techniques or a long list of ingredients. Their appeal lies in their simplicity and the wisdom behind them. Today, when diners are increasingly interested in millets and regional Indian ingredients, bajra raab deserves to be rediscovered," reveals Chef Umesh Singh, Executive Chef at Novotel New Delhi City Centre.

Elaneer Payasam

"Elaneer payasam, made with tender coconut water and soft coconut flesh, brings together everything I enjoy about traditional South Indian desserts, freshness, delicacy and a natural sweetness. It does not need to be heavy or overly rich to leave an impression. The tender coconut gives it a lovely texture, while its subtle flavour makes it particularly refreshing. As chefs, we often look for new ways to surprise guests, but sometimes the most memorable dishes are those that allow the ingredient to speak for itself," says Chef Singh.

Shikampuri Kebab

Shikampuri kebab is a dish that deserves far more recognition for the skill and thought that go into making it. It is associated with the cuisine of Hyderabad and is known for its soft kebab exterior and a delicate stuffing which traditionally comprises of hung curd and a mix of spices. Getting the texture right and balancing the flavors is something that takes care and experience.

He says, "What makes this kebab particularly interesting is the contrast between its spiced exterior and its creamy centre. For me, reviving traditional dishes is not simply about putting an old recipe back on a menu, it is about preserving the technique and character that made it memorable in the first place. Shikampuri kebab is a wonderful example of India's rich kebab heritage."

Dal Baati Churma

Dal baati churma is a traditional Rajasthani food, which means a strong sense of place and togetherness. Hearty lentils, baked baati and sweet churma provide a combination of different textures and flavors that feel whole and soul-satisfying. Chef Umesh Singh says, "I have always believed that some of the most meaningful food experiences come from dishes that have been shared across generations. Dal baati churma has that quality. On a modern menu, it can certainly be presented with a contemporary touch, but its rustic character and traditional flavours should remain untouched. The goal should be to introduce more diners to the dish, not to change what makes it special."

Assam's Mati Mahor Dal, Khar, Thekera Thenga, Til Chicken, and Hahor Mangxo

Assam has a wide variety of such specialities. Mati Mahor Dal, a traditional lentil dish, and Khar, an Assamese preparation made using an alkaline ingredient, are part of the region’s everyday food culture. Thekera Thenga, a tangy curry, brings a distinct sour flavour to the meal. Other dishes, such as Til Chicken, smoked pork with Bhut Jolokia, and Hahor Mangxo with Kumura (duck cooked with ash gourd), show how local ingredients shape the region’s cooking.

"We focus on introducing such food items without losing what makes them special. Hence, we prioritise sourcing the right ingredients, respecting traditional cooking methods and helping guests understand what they are eating. A festive menu can pair familiar celebratory dishes with lesser-known regional preparations, giving diners a reason to explore beyond their usual choices," reveals Pardeep Siwach, General Manager, Mayfair Spring Valley Resort, Guwahati.

Pardeep says, "Traditional food does not always need a modern twist to make it appealing to diners. Sometimes, the real value lies in serving it as it was meant to be enjoyed. We give such recipes a place on our menu to keep them relevant while allowing more people to experience the depth and diversity of India’s culinary heritage."

Uttar Pradesh’s Nimona, Fara, and Bajra ki khichdi

Vibhanshu Mishra, Founder, Banaraswala-Ghat Se Ghar Tak, says, "I believe Uttar Pradesh’s food story deserves to be told beyond its most celebrated dishes. As someone from Varanasi, I see our culinary heritage in the simple preparations that families have cooked and shared for generations."

He says, "Dishes such as bajra ki khichdi, fresh green gram preparations like Nimona, and rice-flour fara reflect the resourcefulness of traditional kitchens. They deserve greater space in conversations about Indian cuisine. These foods are not forgotten by the communities that cherish them, but they can be overlooked on restaurant menus and by younger diners."

Vibhanshu reveals, "The festive season offers a meaningful opportunity to reconnect with this heritage. Homemade gujiya, seasonal sweets and family recipes carry memories of togetherness that deserve to be passed on alongside the food itself.

As restaurateurs, we should learn from home cooks, document regional variations and give these preparations a place on our menus. At Banaraswala, my vision is to bring the warmth of regional Indian food to a wider audience. Preserving a recipe means ensuring it continues to be cooked, enjoyed and shared."

(This article is based on information available in the public domain and on input provided by experts consulted.)